Cool Beans
Heirloom beans including: Scarlet Runner, Yellow Indian Woman, and Cranberry beans.
Beans have been gaining cachet in recent years for good reasons. This most elemental of foods offers myriad benefits for our health and our planet
I’m enamored of both growing and eating beans. Their colors, flavors, and textures make these versatile legumes a pleasure in both agriculture and the culinary arts. Some varieties, such as scarlet runner bean, produce beautiful flowers that attract hummingbirds. Scarlet runner beans, one of my favorites, also produce colorful beans that are mild in flavor with a soft and creamy texture making them a charming addition to both the garden and the plate.
Beloved by chefs, farmers, and foodies, beans are a global staple. Their culinary adaptability has made them ubiquitous in cooking traditions world wide. They play starring roles in the fragrant Indian red bean stew rajma, creamy hummus, comforting and piquant Cajun red beans, savory Ethiopian bean and lentil stews, and the world class tacos cherished by San Diegans; this humble food is a cornerstone in some of the finest cuisines in the world.
In addition to being delicious, beans hold a plethora of nutritional benefits. They are an excellent source of plant-based protein, fiber, and micronutrients. They contain zero trans fat, saturated fat, or cholesterol making them a heart-healthy choice. Including beans and legumes in ones diet has been shown to contribute to overall health and well-being. Beans are a staple in the blue zones which are locations around the world where people live the longest happiest lives.
The cultivation of beans requires considerably less water and land use compared to other sources of protein. As a nitrogen-fixing crop, beans have the unique ability to enhance soil fertility, reducing the need for chemical fertilizers. Heirloom varieties have the additional benefit of being highly adapted to warm arid climates having survived the elements without the use of pesticides or chemical fertilizers for hundreds or even thousands of years in the arid regions of Mexico, South America, and India.
Beans are a more sustainable option on the consumer level as well. They use less packaging than most other foods and they can also be purchased from bulk bins which requires zero disposable packaging. By including beans in our diets, we can contribute to minimizing the overall environmental impact of the food industry.
With the cost of groceries becoming a growing concern for people, beans offer a nutritious, versatile, and frugal ingredient for a wide range of dishes. Beans can be incorporated into soups, stews, sauces, salads, dips, casseroles, or plant based burger patties, presenting an endless array of culinary possibilities. Their ability to absorb flavors and provide a satisfying texture makes them a wonderful addition to any meal.
The resurgence of interest in beans is timely given their benefits for enhancing personal health and bolstering environmental sustainability. Beans stand out as both a remarkable food choice and an exceptionally beneficial crop. Embracing the consumption of beans not only nurtures our well-being but also contributes to a more sustainable future for our planet.
Red Beans with Lemon, Harissa, and Ras el Hanout
I will always love Cajun style red beans but I recently created this red bean recipe when I was sifting through my larder looking for exciting things to liven up a pot of red beans. These delicious beans are rich with the fragrant spices of North Africa. Ras el hanout, which means ‘‘top shelf’’ in Arabic, is a custom blend of the best available spices, sometimes thirty or more. The ingredients vary but it typically contains cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, paprika, mild chili powder and sometimes ground rose petals. I use it to enliven everything from roasted potatoes to chicken thighs to aioli. It is very nice combined with legumes. That being said, you could use any fragrant spice blend you like. You could also change up the type of chili paste and the type of citrus for endless variations. While this recipe takes some time, most of it is hands off as the beans simmer away filling the house with the fragrance of warming spices.
Ingredients:
1 pound dried red beans
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, minced
7 cloves garlic, minced finely
1 two inch piece of ginger, minced finely
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 tablespoon (or more if you like it fiery) ras el hanout
1 teaspoon cumin seeds crushed in a mortar and pestle (or 1 teaspoon ground cumin)
2 cardamom pods crushed in a mortar and pestle (or a pinch of ground cardamom)
2 heaping tablespoons good tomato paste
1 small cinnamon stick
1 quart vegetable stock or chicken stock
Black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon unrefined salt (optional)
Zest and juice from one lemon
Method:
Rinse and sort the beans, put them into a pot, cover them with water and bring to a simmer. Remove the beans from the heat, cover, and allow to soak for one hour. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large heavy bottom soup pot over medium low heat. Add the onion and sweat until translucent, stirring often. Add the garlic, ginger, cumin seed, cardamom, and red bell pepper and allow them to cook slowly until they begin to caramelize, stirring frequently. Add the tomato paste and harissa and stir for another few minutes until everything forms a beautiful fragrant paste. Season to taste with black pepper and salt if using. Slowly stir in the stock and add the beans and the cinnamon stick. Add enough water to keep the beans covered. Bring the beans to a low simmer, cover, and allow to cook over low heat for 1-3 hours (cooking time depends on the age of the beans) until the beans are tender but not falling apart.
Serving suggestions:
Top with any or all of the following: labne, crumbled feta cheese, cilantro, parsley, lemon zest, harissa
For a creamy soup: cool the soup slightly and puree with coconut cream or heavy cream and garnish with any or all of the above toppings.
For a warming and hearty breakfast or brunch: bring leftover beans to a simmer and crack in one or more eggs. Cover the pot and allow the eggs to poach in the liquid on low heat until they reach desired doneness (about three minutes for me). Top with any or all of the above toppings
Serve over rice, couscous, or quinoa
Mash and reheat leftover beans. Use as a topping for warm pita breads, flatbreads, or tortillas (for tacos with a North African twist!) with any or all of the above toppings
Top pita chips with drained or mashed beans and any or all of the above toppings and bake until hot for a North African style nacho
Resources for local heirloom beans:
In San Diego - https://riodelreyfarms.com/
Free heirloom bean seeds to grow your own - https://www.freeheirloomseeds.org/
Foodocracy: A beautiful selection of heirloom beans grown by sustainable small farms -https://shopfoodocracy.com/
Heirloom pink cranberry beans and pods.